This post finishes off our stay in St. Marks, FL with a stop at San Marcos de Apalache on our way to two nights in Apalachicola. We immersed ourselves in Florida history and enjoyed the beautiful coastal waters of the Forgotten Coast. Some great seafood and lively music at a Dive Bar rounded out our visit.

Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit Seeking the Sun 2023.

A Great Morning in St. Marks, FL

Since the drive to Apalachicola was only about 90-minutes, we had plenty of time to check out St. Marks a bit more and grab a fantastic breakfast at The Shack Coffee Boutique. With a name like that we weren’t really sure what to expect, but it definitely was NOT a shack!

We knew that St. Marks River Preserve State Park was going to be beautiful as soon as we entered, with Spanish moss dangling from the tunnel of trees. The boat dock and gazebo offered great options to watch the St. Marks River flow on by.

“Come and take a drive on the ”Wild Side” along Florida’s Big Bend Scenic Byway where theme parks and bright lights give way to horizons of towering pines and blue-green Gulf waters. The “Bend” is where Florida’s Gulf Coast curves westward, sheltering vast seagrass beds, marshes, winding rivers, sugar-sand beaches, deep forests, and crystal-clear springs. The unparalleled natural bounty and beauty of the Bend have attracted visitors since 15,000 BC. While traveling on the Byway, visitors can explore the natural resources which have supported and sustained the lives and the livelihoods of generations past and present.” ~ READ MORE

San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park

If you’ve read many of my posts, you know that Jim is a total history buff, and anything having to do with major battles is of great interest to him. I enjoy it to a certain extent, but I also find joy in the displays at the museums and their prime locations. Although once again the wildlife was lacking, the tall grasses and swaying palms made for an enjoyable morning.

“Two rivers meet, creating a scenic spot for fishing and learning about the storied history of this land. The many different flags flying over San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park welcome visitors to the park and symbolize the colorful history of this site, from the Spanish explorers to the present day.

The European history of this National Landmark dates back to 1528 when Panfilo de Narvaez arrived in the area with 300 men; however, the first fort was not built until 1679. Andrew Jackson occupied the fort for a brief time in the early 1800s. The U.S. Navy began building a marine hospital in the early 1850s to treat sailors with yellow fever. During the American Civil War, Confederates took control of the fort and renamed it Fort Ward.

The park’s museum displays pottery and tools unearthed near the original fort. Interpretive displays explain the history of the San Marcos site. An 18-minute video recounts the days of the Spanish, English, American and Confederate forces that once occupied this site. The video does a great job of tying all the periods of the fort together. A self-guided interpretive trail is open to visitors and guided tours are available.” ~ READ MORE

Wakulla Beach

For one more look at Apalachee Bay, we made a stop at Wakulla Beach to see what we could see. Even though the skies were grey, it was a pleasant stop to watch the water lap at the shore.

Is the Beach Moving?

After just a short while, we became very aware of the movement in the sand around us. First I saw the holes, which immediately made me think of spiders or snakes, but after closer examination of our surroundings we noticed crabs were emerging from the sand and scurrying around. Amused by the little creatures, I gave google a spin and came up with a video of the amazing little Sand Bubbler Crabs. Isn’t nature fascinating?

Although it may be fascinating, it was also a little creepy and I was worried we’d step on them or disturb their building process. We left with another interesting fact about nature under our belt and headed out for our next destination.

Welcome to Apalachicola

“Apalachicola Florida is a warm, welcoming port town bursting with hometown charm, friendly folks and rich maritime history. Nestled on the mouth of the Apalachicola River, this small coastal city is home to bustling seafood houses, weather-worn shrimp boats and stately historical buildings.

The name “Apalachicola” is a combination of the Hitchoti Indian words “apalahchi,” meaning “on the other side,” and “okli,” meaning “people.” However, Apalachicola locals will tell you it means “land of the friendly people.” As soon as you set foot in this genial small town, you’ll understand why. Brimming with warm hospitality and smiling faces, Apalachicola makes everyone feel at home.” ~ READ MORE

Last time we were through Apalachicola, it was part of The Scenic Route where we stopped for lunch, looked around a bit and headed for St. Pete’s Beach, FL. As soon as we arrived, we loved the vibe of the place and knew we had to schedule a re-do.

This time we stayed two nights at the Majestic Jewel – a beautiful bed and breakfast right off the main drag. Since we arrived a little too early to check in, we made a stop at Up the Creek Raw Bar for a celebratory beer to watch the birds and boats as we awaited our 4pm checkin.

After the unloading process was complete, we chatted with our hosts for a while and they suggested Half Shell Dockside for dinner. Our meals were pretty good, but the pelicans below were even better. They were pretty well-behaved considering the fish piled on the plates at the tables!

John Gorrie

On this trip we scheduled in a whole day to explore, so the next day we headed out to walk the city. According to the Apalachicola Walking Tour, there is a pretty lengthy list of places to visit, so put on your walking shoes! We took the more relaxed approach – where we ambled along and stopped when we found something to stop at. Clearly on our next visit we’ll have to step up our game!

Dr. John Gorrie was a “physician, scientist, inventor, and a great Floridian” according to the sign by the door to his museum below. The museum contains a replica of the ice machine he created during a yellow fever epidemic in the early 1930s. He was granted the first U.S. patent for mechanical refrigeration, which lead to modern-day ice machines and air conditioning. Where would we be without that invention – especially while in Florida in the summertime!

More About the CCC

The John Gorrie Museum also had a wonderful display about the Florida Park Service and the first eight parks constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The work that this group did for America back in the 1930s was both beautiful and sturdy since most of their projects are still around today in many of our National Parks.

“Like other states, Florida was reeling from the Great Depression in the early 1930s. People were out of work and tourism had dwindled. President Franklin D. Roosevelt envisioned a program to employ young single men and at the same time preserve the country’s natural resources, specifically forests. In March 1933, Congress enacted the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). The CCC consisted of organized camps of about 200 men each working on forestry projects on private, federal, state, county, or city-owned lands.

At the beginning of the CCC program, Florida did not have any state-owned forests or parks. So, to maximize the program’s potential in Florida, the State began to acquire thousands of acres of forest from private owners who were delinquent on taxes. By October 1933, Florida had twenty-two CCC camps that employed 3,500 men in various forestry operations including fire prevention, reforestation, and building roads. In 1934, the CCC sphere extended to building parks.” ~ READ MORE on the signs below

John Gorrie’s resume also included positions as mayor, postmaster, bank president, secretary of the Masonic Lodge and a founding vestryman of Trinity Episcopal Church (below).

John Gorrie Square

Of the Six Historic Squares in the city, I’m sure that this is one of the most popular given the fact that a sweet tea in your hand is much better when filled with ICE! Gorrie Square is lovely, with beautiful benches set around its perimeter where Trinity Episcopal Church was assembled after its long journey from New York.

“Begun in 1837 and completed in 1838, the present church was built as a cut to order building in White Plains, New York. It was brought down and around the tip of Florida and assembled like a puzzle on its present site. Trinity was organized in 1836 in the then-territory of Florida, an inhospitable wilderness of swamps and forests where indigenous and enslaved people found haven, and outlaws roamed. It rose from that rough beginning to its status on the National Register of Historic Places and holds the distinction of being the sixth oldest church in Florida and the second oldest continuously serving church. Trinity is proud to be Apalachicola’s Historic First Church.” ~ READ MORE

Fort Coombs Armory

Fort Coombs Armory was built in 1898 at the urging of a local militia called the Franklin Guards. It was named after James Percy Coombs – commander of the local National Guard unit around that time. He was later Mayor of Apalachicola, and a Lieutenant Colonel in World War I.

A fire destroyed the armory and much of the downtown in 1900 and the armory’s replacement was built at the same location. “The solid massing of the walls, slit windows, and a four-story corner tower make it resemble a medieval watchtower. The imposing military structure is one of the most unique examples of “fortress architecture” in Florida… Today, the armory is a contributing building on the National Register of Historic Places forming part of the Apalachicola Historic District.” ~ READ MORE

Our Walk About Town Continues

Time for a Break

Because we loved the birds (and the beers) so much yesterday, we made another stop at Up the Creek Raw Bar – this time for some lunch. We discovered when our burgers arrived at our table, we could have split one burger! But they were delicious and the view could not be beat.

Last stop of the day was at the High Five Dive Bar for another Hazy and some great music by Hot Mess. One of the customers brought in his buddy, who quickly became mine as I walked by. I kept calling him a pretty bird, but he was not affected by my complements and eventually moved to someone else’s shoulder.

This was an absolutely fabulous day. What could be better than great music in an open-air venue in the beginning of March, especially with a big-ass bird on my shoulder? I can’t think of a thing!

Back Home on the Porch

We spent the rest of the afternoon on the porch at our Bed and Breakfast. I can definitely see another visit here in two years!

Next up: Cape San Blas Lighthouse

Happy trails,
Barb