Skagway was fantastic! We learned how a gold rush led to thousands of mostly ill-prepared men seeking their fortunes, which led to conmen and thieves. It also prompted construction of a railway, which changed the transportation industry forever. We had a dapper storyteller/tour guide on a cool streetcar, and a float trip down the fantastic Chilkat River.

Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
To start at the beginning of this trip, visit The Trip of Our Lives 2023.
To start at the beginning of the cruise portion of this trip, visit North to Alaska 2023.

Fun Times Ahead!

Our day ashore in Skagway, Alaska was a great one! The first photo below (from Wikipedia) gives a bird’s-eye view of the harbor, and the two ships at the bottom right are right where we were docked.

The second photo below shows some “graffiti” on the side of the mountain above the White Pass train cars. Come to find out, it’s not graffiti at all! It has become a tradition for the ship’s crew to add the ship’s name to the cliff the first time it docks in Skagway, and one dates back to 1927. Princess usually docks at either of the Railroad Docks – right up against that cliff.

A Little History

“The Gold Rush. Historic Skagway saw tens of thousands of fortune-seeking prospectors during the great Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. Here, the stampeders piled off steamships, eager to head overland to the Yukon goldfields on the White Pass Trail from Skagway or Chilkoot Trail from nearby Dyea. But before the lonely men could leave town, they faced the temptations of 80 saloons, the lure of painted ladies, and the quick fingers of gamblers and thieves such as Jefferson R. “Soapy” Smith and his ruthless gang.

The White Pass and Yukon Route. Foreseeing a lucrative future in the Yukon, a group of British financiers began construction of the narrow-gauge White Pass and Yukon Route Railway in July of 1898. Completed to Whitehorse in 1900, and connecting with a region-wide steamship navigation system, the White Pass Corporation began a transportation network in the North that remains to this day. Skagway boomed during the Gold Rush of 1898, but languished as the rush moved on to Nome in 1899.

After the turn of the century many of the businesses moved their buildings from the avenues to front on Broadway and the tracks of the White Pass Railway. The town settled into its ultimate, but less dramatic role as the shipping port for the Yukon. Fire, the scourge of many historic Alaskan towns thankfully never ravaged downtown Skagway, leaving an authentic Gold Rush atmosphere.” ~ from the Skagway Visitor’s Guide

We Love Visitor Centers

We arrived early for our 10:30am excursion so we could check out the Visitor Center at Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Loads of history was packed in this building about the gold rush, and the early years of this treacherous part of the country. Years after the hoards of mostly-unprepared men seeking their fortunes moved on to the next best thing, Skagway still draws folks to experience the excitement of the era.

“Tourism has always played an important role in Skagway’s economy. Every summer, thousands arrive by cruise ships, Alaska Marine Highway ferries, airplanes, and automobiles on the South Klondike Highway, which opened in 1978. Today, Skagway is still a boom town, playing host to visitors from all over the world who still come to experience the excitement of the gold rush.” ~ from a sign below

Skagway Street Car City Tour with Storyteller

Since this excursion was only 1-1/2 hours, it fit in well with our afternoon float trip. Steve was an awesome tour guide – dressed to impress – and very well-versed in the history of Skagway. He’s lived here for 50 years and prior to becoming a “storyteller/tour guide” he worked for the railroad – two very important occupations in this town! Steve drove us around for a while in his beautiful street car, giving us a little history along the way.

Soapy Smith – Gambler, Con Man, and Bully from Colorado

“Between 1897 and 1898, Skagway was a lawless town, described by one member of the North-West Mounted Police as “little better than a hell on earth.” Fights, prostitutes, and liquor were ever-present on Skagway’s streets, and con man Soapy Smith, who had risen to considerable power, did little to stop it.

But Smith pushed his luck, and when Soapy’s gang robbed a returning prospector named John Stewart, Stewart said so, loudly and often. Skagway, tired of Soapy by now, held a vigilante meeting to oust him. When he heard of it, Soapy marched down to the meeting carrying a rifle. In July 1898, Frank Reid, the town’s surveyor, challenged Soapy with a pistol. They both fired. Soapy was killed instantly, but his shot hit Reid, who died a few days later. Reid was the hero, but Soapy is best remembered.” ~ READ MORE and find out how “Soapy” got his nickname

We ended at the Klondike Gold Rush Cemetery (a.k.a. “Skagway’s Boot Hill”), where Soapy Smith and his assailant are both buried. Steve told us the entire story while waving his arms and pulling the triggers, raising and lowering his voice in a very dramatic fashion! He was a fantastic storyteller!

Time for a Break

After we said goodbye to Steve, we stayed in town for a quick lunch at The Smokehouse where we split an order of halibut fish and chips. However, we did NOT split our Spruce Tip Blondes. Yummy!

“Life in Alaska isn’t easy and we like it that way. We work hard, we play hard. What better way to cap off a day than enjoying a hearty meal and a cold Spruce Tip Blonde Ale with friends and family? Skagway Brewing Company is open year-round so that locals and tourists alike can enjoy the extra effort we put into creating something special. You’ll taste the difference in every bite and every sip. Our pledge to sustainability ensures that the ingredients used to cook your meal and craft your beer are fresh and of the highest quality. Food at its finest!” ~ READ MORE

Haines Eagle Preserve Rafting & Wildlife Quest

We met at the pier shortly after 1, but didn’t leave until almost 2pm. This was slightly disconcerting with a 6-1/2 hour excursion and our ship set to disembark at 8:30. We arrived back on the ship just in the nick of time, but even had we been late – they couldn’t leave without us since it was a Princess excursion. Whew!

“The area attracts visitors from around the world for its unparalleled bald eagle viewing opportunities. Although there are no visitor facilities in the critical habitat area, excellent bald eagle viewing can be found between miles 18 and 22 on the Haines Highway, with greatest eagle concentrations occurring during mid to late November.” ~ READ MORE

Since it was not mid- to late November, there was no “high concentration of bald eagles” that the name of this excursion implied (or any for that matter, remember the glacial silt?). But it was still a fantastic day!

After a beautiful 45-minute high-speed catamaran ride to a 40-minute school bus ride, we arrived at the Chilkat River. Our trip started out pretty chilly, but ended up just perfect with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and a bright blue sky. It was suggested that we stow our electronics somewhere safe, but Jim snapped a couple of pictures just before he put his phone away.

Riverside Picnic

After the float we had a little picnic where we could talk about what we enjoyed the most. All of our guides thanked us for making it possible for them to do what they love to do in one of the most beautiful places on earth. The guide that paddled our boat goes back to Colorado when the season ends here, where he can snow ski with as much passion as he glides (or paddles) down the beautiful rivers of Alaska.

Back on the Grand Princess

We grabbed a nibble at the International Cafe (and an old fashioned) before heading back to our stateroom. We had amazing views of the sunset from our balcony around 10pm, as we headed to yet another fantastic destination.

So long Skagway!

Up Next: Scenic Cruising: Grand Finales

Happy trails,
Barb