With only one night at Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge, our time may have been better spent relaxing by the massive fireplace and learning more about “The Great One”. Although hind-sight is 20/20, so if Jim’s very poorly-planned float trip had been marvelous instead, this would be an entirely different narrative!

Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
To start at the beginning of this trip, visit The Trip of Our Lives 2023.
To start at the beginning of the cruise portion of this trip, visit North to Alaska 2023.

“On the eve of the National Park Service’s 100th anniversary in 2016, the name of the highest peak in North America changed from “Mount McKinley” to “Denali.” The timing of the change not only helped mark the agency’s centennial, it shines a light on the long human history of the park, and illuminates a naming debate that has lasted more than 100 years.” ~ READ MORE (photo above is from this website)

Back in the Motor Coach

Bags out by 7:15, breakfast at the Rod & Reel, AIS 9 a.m. Sorry, AIS is an “Everybody Loves Raymond” reference. If you’re not aware of the very controversial way to get the wife going, click on the link.

Mt. McKinley Lodge sits on the banks of the Chulitna River in Denali State Park in Trapper Creek, AK. Another gloomy day was on tap, but we went with the flow. En route we saw a moose in the tall grasses off the road, plain as day, and pretty close too, but I was not ready with my camera. With no photographic evidence, you’ll just have to trust me that it was fantastic!

Left Turn to Anchorage!

Adding on to our 4-1/2 hour drive, was a 90-minute break in Anchorage. Jim had his sights set on a brewery he visited many years ago when he was in Anchorage for work. He determined it was not Forty-Ninth State Brewery, but this place was really nice and our lunch and beers were very good. If you click on the link, one of the photos that scrolls through is a gorgeous photo of two moose chomping on some tall grasses. That’s a way better picture than I could have gotten from a moving bus anyway, even though we did slow down.

“A 3-bay bus barn in Healy sat alone on a wooded property at the doorstep to Denali National Park. We set up one bay as a restaurant, one as our future brewery, and one for restrooms and back-of-house storage.

The brewery had a bit of an echo at the start since we only brewed a barrel at a time. Our brewers were perfecting their recipes before they brewed higher volumes. In those days, we’d announce that a few kegs were ready to be tapped, people would drive down from Fairbanks (two-hours away), and the beer would be gone by the time they got here. NOTE: We still use this system for pilot testing!” ~ READ MORE

Shrouded in Clouds

It was great to finally arrive after the long drive to the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge, which was absolutely beautiful! From the fabulous deck we could have had a great view of Denali, but it was socked in. We still have a chance tomorrow morning, so we have to stay positive!

In one area of the lobby there were several displays to learn about “The Great One” and the history of climbing the highest mountain in North America. With only one night here we couldn’t take advantage of any activities offered by the lodge which could have been interesting. Naturalists provide knowledge and insight into all things Alaska, including the flora & fauna, Alaska geology, and state and national park information.

Plenty of Wildlife at the Lodge

Unfortunately all of the wildlife we spotted in and around the lodge were of the wood or bronze variety, but they were still quite beautiful (or cute).

Way Early Excursions

Next morning we had to get our bags out early and walk down for our excursions by 7:30. Today we split up so I could take in the Byers Lake Nature Walk (3hr) and Jim could do another float trip (5.5hr). Our motor coach was scheduled to leave for Denali as soon as Jim returned and good thing it was a Princess excursion, so I didn’t have to worry about leaving him behind!

What I thought was going to be more of a hike turned out to be an easy out and back along Byers Lake in Denali State Park. “The lake is tucked between the Talkeetna Mountains and the Alaska Range with some of the closest and majestic views of Denali” – none of which I could see at all! The weather was pretty awful, but it only rained a bit off and on and our guide was great, with extensive knowledge of the Park, its plants and wildlife.

No Time for Breakfast? No Problem!

Bernard told us about a lot of edible plants so we could survive in the woods if we had to (ha ha) and we were able to munch on a few plants as we made our way along the trail. We tasted the first two, but I don’t remember which of the others to eat or avoid, I just think they’re pretty! We do know the second one, because we had Spruce Tips beer at The Smokehouse in Skagway. Delicioso! 🍺🍺

Skunk Cabbage

Bernard told us of several to avoid, but one should be avoided at all costs! He reiterated the information that our guide way back in Ketchikan told us about Skunk cabbage being nature’s ex-lax. Bears are one of the few animals that eat the buds and leaves of Skunk cabbage. It helps get their digestion moving after hibernation.

“For the insects that love the scent and nectar from the skunk cabbage plant, it is a natural and healthy part of their diet. For human beings, dogs, cats, and other mammals, it’s a totally different story. In small doses, or two small bites, the skunk cabbage plant can cause burning and swelling of the mouth and a choking sensation. Eating larger portions of these leaves can, in extreme cases, be fatal.” ~ READ MORE

Flowers were just coming on, but it was a very enjoyable morning. Bernard gave us some healing salve made from native plants, and we visited a family’s historic log cabin built when the area was home to trappers, traders and gold miners. Quite beautiful years ago, but it’s definitely a fixer-upper now!

Beeman’s Cabin

“By Ray Bonnell (also drawing below): Just a few minute’s walk from Byers Lake campground near Mile 138 of the Parks Highway lies the picturesque remains of an old two-room cabin. From 1959 to the early 1970s, this was the headquarters for trapper Edward “Red” Beeman.

Red came to Alaska in 1951 courtesy of the U.S. Air Force. He fell in love with Alaska and lingered after his discharge. In summer 1954, he began fishing commercially for salmon in Cook Inlet using set nets, which are gillnets anchored or “set” in one location.

Commercial fishing, like many occupations in Alaska, is a seasonal activity. Consequently, Red also started guiding hunters in autumn and trapping during winter. In an interview in Randy Zarnke’s book, Alaska Tracks: Life Stories from Hunters, Fishermen & Trappers of Alaska, Red says, “… that’s what I’ve done. Fish in the summer, guide in the fall, trap in the winter. It’s been a good life.” ~ READ MORE

Treehouse by Pete Nelson

After we returned back to our Lodge, I took a soggy/rainy walk uphill to a Treehouse designed and built by Pete Nelson of Animal Planet’s Treehouse Masters. It was very cool, but one of its most important features was its whole new perspective of Denali – which was still socked in. But as treehouses go, this one was very cool! I guess we’re going to have to come back and spend more than just one night here to see if the elusive Great One will actually make an appearance.

Click on the link (and connect to your cable provider) and you can see the entire episode from Pete’s very exciting phone call that he was chosen to build it – to the finished project. Pete is one very enthusiastic man, and this was quite an undertaking! Views of Denali are front and center above the tree line from the deck (when there are no clouds 🙁). It was amazing!

Time for a Break

I had a great chicken salad at 20320 Alaska Grill, and got Jim something hand-held to eat on the bus. He had texted me to say they were coming in HOT and what a terrible trip it was. The Talkeetna River Float Trip was the worst-planned excursion EVER.

An hour on the McKinley Princess Talkeetna Shuttle to arrive at 9, to no guidance where they should go. They had to walk five blocks to the rafting office, which didn’t open until 10, to take a van to the river by 10:30. They had to cut the float short to reverse the process in time to catch our bus. Maybe they had an hour on the water on a 5-1/2 hour excursion? He was not happy, but his wrap and cookie helped… a little.

On The Road Again

We left a little late for a beautiful drive to our next stop. Our guide was great, pointing out good stuff along the way. We stopped at Mile Marker 201 on the Parks Highway by Summit Lake for awesome mountain views just at the tree line. This stop was magnificent and it was amazing to be here!

Next up: Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge

Happy trails,
Barb