As our stay in Wilmington winds down, we can’t leave the state without showing off some magnificent views! This post takes us on Molly Stark Byway (Route 9), which offers a glimpse at Vermont’s splendid valleys, historic villages, and the extraordinary Green Mountains.

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To start at the beginning of this series, visit Fall for New England 2021.

Molly Stark Scenic Byway

Also called Vermont’s Heritage Trail and Route 9, Molly Stark Scenic Byway covers the entire 48 miles of southern Vermont – from the western edge of the state in Bennington (through Wilmington) to the eastern edge in Brattleboro.

It has had many names in its long and historic past as this area of the country began its settlement. Built in 1746 as The Great Albany Road for moving military supplies, its Western Extension was added in 1762. In the early 1800s when five highly unpopular toll gates were added, it became the Windham County Turnpike.

Postcards from the 1920s and 30s started referring to this stretch as the Molly Stark Trail – paying homage to Vermont’s roots, but it wasn’t until 1967 that it was officially named that. And in July 2003, the State of Vermont renamed it the Molly Stark Scenic Byway, officially a Vermont Scenic Byway – and scenic it is!

Wow, What a View!

From the Hogback Mountain scenic overlook in Marlboro, miles and miles of undeveloped land provide the famous hundred-mile view of southern Vermont, northern Massachusetts, and southwestern New Hampshire. The clouds added a dramatic element, like they always do. I could have stayed here all day staring out into the distance. Except for the occasional car speeding by on the highway, there was total silence.

The red building above had a wonderful array of items from Vermont – maple syrup, fudge and cheeses, t-shirts and souvenirs. Of course that fabulous red building also housed Hogback Mountain Creamee – ice cream that we just had to taste. Something you just don’t see every day in a touristy Vermont store however, was the Southern Vermont Historical Museum, located in the basement.

The Southern Vermont Natural History Museum was founded around the Historic Luman Nelson Natural History Collection. With over 600 mounted specimens of native northeastern birds and mammals, close to 250 species are represented. This is the largest collection of its kind in Vermont. In addition to the Natural History exhibit, the Museum houses a northeastern mineralogy collection, live animal exhibits and presents educational programs on site and around the region.

I wasn’t sure how I’d react once I heard about the “mounted specimens”, but it really was quite interesting. They were beautifully displayed in a somewhat natural environment. I wasn’t allowed to take pictures, so you’ll have to visit if that sounds interesting to you.

A Brew with a View

On another visit to this spot, we were just up the mountain from the scenic overlook at the Beer Naked Brewery. There we could get another look from the top of Hogback Mountain and drown our sorrows, since today it was raining, our view was through the window, and it was our last day in Vermont. Sigh.

Bad News, Good News

We had a wonderful time in Vermont and were sad about leaving, yet happy to be moving our home base to New Hampshire. Since we only had a 3-1/2 hour drive, we filled in our commute with two covered bridges and a fantastic late breakfast. What a surprise!

The Creamery Bridge was built in 1879 right near the old Brattleboro Creamery to replace one that was destroyed in a flood the previous year. The covered sidewalk on one side was added in 1920 and makes this bridge quite unique in the county. It was retired to a pedestrian bridge when a more modern bridge was built in 2010 to handle emergency vehicles more safely.

Adorned with planters of flowers, the new bridge provides a great side view of the old one. It is located in a lovely little park right off the main drag, and a nearby softball field offers lots of parking – a rare commodity near covered bridges in this area.

Deli/Bakery Stop!

If you’re hungry while in Brattleboro, stop by the Vermont Country Deli, which is about two blocks from the Creamery Bridge. A great selection of fabulous, beautiful and healthy food awaits! If you don’t think you’re hungry, check out their website and you’ll be booking a flight. We had breakfast sandwiches and took an Apple Tart to go, which we enjoyed later on down the road.

About two hours north, we found the Swiftwater Bridge in the town of Bath, NH. This was one of our favorites because of its weathered look and with the water level low, we were able to explore beneath the bridge which was quite a treat. Too bad there was no alcohol or nude bathing allowed, because I would have definitely needed one to do the other!

This is the fourth bridge to cross the Wild Ammonoosuc River at this site. The first two built in 1810 and 1818, were destroyed by floods. The third was built in 1829, and remained for twenty years when it was dismantled and replaced by the current bridge – which was rebuilt by the state in 1977. That was a lot of rebuilding, but it was so worth it! The Swiftwater Bridge is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Ideal Tour

I was just thinking back to the beginning of this post and the green obelisk by the Country Store. It had information about the Molly Stark Trail and how back in the early 1900s, the dawn of the automobile age brought about “pleasure driving”. An ambitious hotel owner came up with the Ideal Tour, and he promised early road-trippers “a first class hotel at the end of each day’s run.”

Of course, I could be dreaming, but this present day road-tripper is thinking we are on the Ideal Tour right freaking now! Start planning yours today, and safe travels!

Next up: Another Week of Wow!

Happy trails,
Barb