The next stop on our itinerary was five nights on the north end of San Antonio. Since we enjoyed the more well-known portion of the River Walk on a previous trip, we stayed closer to our new digs with a visit to the Pearl District. The misty rain was mostly just an annoyance and even though it was the end of January we had a splendid time.

Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit So Long Snow 2022.

A Longer Stay

Our last time in San Antonio was during our Escape the Tundra road trip in 2019. At that time we secured a great little octagonal house at the Texas Timeshares – a slightly dated, but very pleasant RCI property in Lakeway. From there we branched out with day trips to Austin, San Antonio and several other places we had never heard of till we started planning that trip.

Since our short stay in San Antonio was such a hit, we decided we would return and try out the Eilan Hotel & Spa, an absolutely fabulous boutique hotel that can be booked with our Bluegreen points. Although it was a gorgeous hotel and our one-bedroom, two-bath unit was very nice, it was basically a hotel unit with only a very-mini fridge and no microwave.

On one hand that’s nice, because by now you know how much we love trying out new restaurants. But on the other, we have to bring this two-month road trip in on a budget. Starting out in New Orleans and then coming here was not the best way to achieve that goal, but hey – we can’t take it with us!

In a Great Neighborhood

The Eilan was fantastic and the area around it was very new, modern, and so clean. There was not a soul to be seen on the day I explored, which made for nice pictures and a sense of peace and quiet in an otherwise bustling city.

Lots of Dinner Choices

Although we couldn’t walk to many, there were lots of choices when our tummies started rumbling. The Rustic was just across the “street” (interstate) in a huge shopping complex, and offered live music, great margaritas and an interesting assortment of appetizers. We didn’t brave the outdoor seating, but our table just inside the open door kept us out of the wind with just the right amount of background music to welcome us to San Antonio.

A Plan for Flood Control

In 1954 Congress authorized the San Antonio River Channel Improvement Project. Soon after, the River Authority and the Army Corps of Engineers began work to alleviate the devastating floods that had plagued the San Antonio River Basin for years.

They worked together to improve flood control along 31 miles of the San Antonio River and its tributaries. This involved “realignment and channelization” of the river system to divert flood waters away from populated areas. Construction began in 1958 and was complete by the 1980s.

With a need for further flood protection in downtown San Antonio, the San Pedro Creek and the San Antonio River tunnel projects began in 1991 and 1993 and all projects were considered complete in 1997.

Put to the Test

In October of 1998, the tunnel systems were put to the test with record-breaking rainfalls over a two-day period. Not only did they pass with flying colors, but state and federal awards were won, as well as an achievement award from the American Society of Civil Engineers in recognition of the San Antonio River Tunnel Inlet Site.

“The Inlet structure consists of a 120-foot-long intake which includes rotating racks to collect trash before it can enter the tunnel. The River Authority provided landscaping, an aerating water feature, disinfection, and recirculation pumps to recirculate water from the tunnel and into the river to supplement flow during dry periods. This helps keep the River Walk flowing for the enjoyment of visitors and locals.” ~ READ MORE

Now, Let’s Make it Pretty!

San Antonio didn’t want this to just be any trail along its property- and life-saving tunnel system and waterway, so the San Antonio River Foundation became its nonprofit partner to provide opportunities for residents and tourists to “enjoy the river’s natural beauty, immerse themselves in its history, and become thoughtful stewards of its future”.

“The River Foundation’s ambitious projects range from creating unprecedented opportunities for education, recreation and interaction with nature along the river to initiating, funding and installing exciting urban art projects by renowned regional, national, and international artists.”

The Pearl District

The tunnel intake shaft is now part of the Museum Reach San Antonio River Walk segment, also called the Pearl District. Although the photo of a nearby sign (below) sums up the history of how this District got its name, more info is at the link just below.

“Pearl has a rich history dating back to 1883. Here’s how the brewery transformed over the course of a century to ultimately become the crown jewel in revitalization efforts of southern Midtown and northern Downtown San Antonio.” ~ READ MORE

Let’s Take a Walk!

At first glance, we both agreed to follow the walk a little further down. North of the more well-known River Walk that we scoured on our first visit, this has a much more-residential less-touristy feel. In this area the sidewalk was bordered with lovely lannonstone embankments, and a few ducks enjoyed the peace and quiet before the tourist frenzy begins in the coming months.

Maintenance men were dredging the river, like they do every-other year in January. Had we known then what we know now, we could have avoided a few unpleasantries, but that’s what we get for coming in the off-season.

What’s that? The Hotel Emma! Our granddaughter’s name on a hotel? Let’s check that out!

History Made Tangible – The Hotel Emma

“When you visit Hotel Emma you’ll see industrial artifacts respectfully and sometimes whimsically incorporated into graciously designed spaces. A suite’s ceiling is the bottom of a cast-iron hopper, an early 20th century compressor has been retired to the lobby, and solid bronze industrial gadgets are repurposed as lighting fixtures. The brewery’s tangible history is taking on new life at Hotel Emma.” ~ READ MORE

This was an absolutely fabulous place that I hope to call home someday (for at least a night or two). We explored all that we could without an actual reservation, and we were amazed by the industrial elements from the brewery that were part of the design!

About the Restoration

“‘Historic fabric’ is the preservationist’s term for the materials and methods used in an historical building. As a preservation architect, Jeff [Jeffrey Fetzer, FAIA] collaborated with Hotel Emma’s owner, architects and designers as they wove history and hospitality into the spaces that surround guests with comfort, beauty and unexpected aesthetic juxtapositions.

My role at the hotel was to make sure that new construction was compatible with the soul and bones of the building. And when we uncovered treasures, I made recommendations for integrating them into the finished design.

Jeff explored the old Brewhouse in 2002 to analyze and document the building’s condition. He found that the last brewery workers had “literally turned out the lights, locked the doors and walked away.” He discovered coffee cups (and beer cans) on desks, notes tacked to bulletin boards, and uniforms in lockers. And giant brewing tanks, conveyors, vats, hoppers and massive engines. Many of these artifacts are repurposed throughout the hotel, while others are cataloged and stored off site.” ~ READ MORE

After our self-guided snooping, Jim enjoyed a craft beer and I had a “restorative cocktail” at the Sternewirth Tavern, which was up there as one of the coolest bars I’ve ever been in. Too bad we had to say goodbye.

Live in the Present

Wow, that was an awesome visit, but we must move on to our walk along the river. I love the way the sidewalk meanders along the river so with each curve, brand new elements come into view. Lots of greenery, tufts of tall grasses, and flowers just waiting (till we leave) to bloom offered great beauty on a not-so-great day.

I’m already planning our next trip here (and the rest of the River Walk) in the springtime just after everything blooms, but before the hoards of tourists arrive. I don’t know if that’s possible, but I’m going to give it a try! Hopefully by then the dredging will be complete and the water level will be up where it should be.

The Grotto

The Grotto is one example of the many ways San Antonio supports art. The San Antonio River Foundation “seeks investment from corporations and citizens in order to provide cultural, educational, environmental and recreational amenities along the river for the enjoyment of residents and visitors alike.”

“The Grotto was created by third-generation San Antonio artist Carlos Cortés (2009). Known throughout our region for decades of amazing ‘faux-bois’ or false-wood concrete work, this project includes elements of the family’s trademark tree and root sculptures that have been worked into a fanciful, cave-like creation. Hidden within the cavernous walls are the craggy faces, profiles, silhouettes and forms of many people and creatures both real and mystical… Not just art or craft, the work of Carlos Cortés is a part of the cultural fabric of San Antonio… The Grotto is a cool and shady place to rest on a hot day and becomes a glowing fantasy-scape by night.” ~ FROM A SIGN NEARBY. CLICK TO SEE A PHOTO AT NIGHT.

F.I.S.H.

F.I.S.H. is another example of more beauty just around the corner. This one was amazing! There are more wonderful installations along the river. Clearly, I’m not wrong to start planning another visit!

“When artist Donald Lipski first visited this area under IH-35, he was reminded of swimming and scuba diving along the underside of a fishing pier. This inspired his idea to create a school of Texas-sized fish “swimming” along underneath the highway. This group of 25, seven-foot long fish are oversized replicas of an actual fish that is native to the San Antonio River. This fish is called the long-eared sunfish and is found throughout the rivers of the southeastern United States. Each fish is internally lit and the views of this artwork at night are quite magical!” ~ FROM A SIGN NEARBY. CLICK TO SEE A PHOTO AT NIGHT.

Long History

A long history of the San Antonio Museum of Art is at the link. It begins in 1718 with the huge Live Oak (shown below) and ends with today, with the Museum’s Mission and some visitor and program information.

“The mission of the Museum is to collect, preserve, exhibit and interpret significant works of art, representing a broad range of history and world cultures, which will strengthen our shared understanding of humanity.

The Museum conducts more than 500 guided tours, serves more than 20,000 students of all ages, and provides approximately 580 public programs each year. Programs include lectures, concerts, films, children’s workshops, scholarly symposia, family art activities, and special exhibitions.”

There is also a stop on the timeline at the link in 1994 when the Beretta Hops House (the brewery’s former cooper shop) is renovated and the Luby Courtyard opens (both shown below). The Luby is an outdoor space for family days and other celebrations with lovely strings of lights and plenty of seating.

More random photos follow that I think are part of the old brewery, which means they may be part of the Museum. Clearly I need a museum tour to get all of my facts straight. Next time!

Sorry, My Mind is Elsewhere.

Elsewhere Garden Bar & Kitchen was closed during our visit, but it looks like a fun place to be on a warm evening. And it’s totally pet friendly!

“Sorry, My Mind is Elsewhere. Established in 2020, Elsewhere Garden has already become that hidden gem on the San Antonio Riverwalk. The trees, plants and porch swings overlooking the river, create an oasis like no other in the city.

With games, drinks, food, entertainment, and beautiful scenery, it is the perfect place to hangout with your family and friends. All ages welcome.”

Time for Lunch

Since the rain was picking up, we picked up our pace and although (we assumed) there was much more to see downstream, we decided to head back. Next stop was the Boiler House Texan Grill & Wine Garden for a beer and some lunch to celebrate another fabulous day on vacation!

In Conclusion

Today was a wonderful day! The Pearl District was modern and fabulous! There are no words for the Hotel Emma and the artwork along the riverwalk just added to its beauty. We are definitely coming back here!

Next up: On a Mission x4

Happy trails,
Barb