En route to St. Mary Village
We turned the two-hour drive from West Glacier to St. Mary Village into a six-hour day. Instead of taking Going to the Sun Road (been there, done that), we took the longer, but shorter route with a LOT of beautiful distractions.
Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit The Trip of Our Lives 2023.
Moving Day
After three nights in West Glacier, today we are headed to three nights in St. Mary Village – on the eastern end of Glacier National Park. Although Going to the Sun Road may LOOK to be the quickest route, the route we’re taking today actually IS. Check out the photos from my last two posts and you’ll see why!
Today we’ll blaze a new trail and head south then east on Hwy 2, and back up to St. Mary Village, with a travel time of about two hours.
We weren’t in too big of a hurry this morning. We had several planned stops to make our journey more interesting, and several views just begged to be taken in. Jim was just excited that we had lots of land on either side of the road today, unlike the last few days.
Drive-bys
Somehow we missed the turnout to Goat Lick Overlook, but I’m saving this information for our next trip. A short path that leads to marvelous river views and dozens of mountain goats? What more could a person ask for?
“Located along U.S. Highway 2, approximately two miles southeast of the Walton Ranger Station, is an exposed riverbank where mountain goats and other animals come to lick the mineral-laden cliffs. From the parking area, a short paved path leads to an observation stand overlooking the waters of the Middle Fork of the Flathead River…
Glacier National Park goats travel as far as four miles to get to the Goat Lick, while others from more widely dispersed areas in the Flathead National Forest travel several times that distance. April through August are the most concentrated use periods, although use may occur year-round. During late June and July, dozens at a time may gather here.” ~ READ MORE
We had thought about a stop in East Glacier Village, but it didn’t look like there was much there except the Glacier Park Lodge. You know how much we love a historic lodge, but we decided to keep on going.
A Little Detour
From East Glacier we missed the turnoff for Hwy 49 and stayed on Highway 2 instead, which eventually would have taken us to Browning, MT – not where we wanted to go! But as wrong turns go, this route was kind of breathtaking.
Running Eagle Falls
> “Running Eagle lived many years ago, long before European contact in the early 1700’s. She was born here in the heartland of the Amskapi-Pikuni, next to the shining mountains. Running Eagle was a real mortal person, not mythical.
Running Eagle’s life story is an illustrious saga of leadership and many victories that are famous to this day. The story of her life was told by Pikuni elders in a true oral traditional manner. Running eagle is the only young woman of the Pikuni people to have gone on a four day fast; to suffer, dream, pray and find her medicine. High above the beautiful falls, her vision was successful…” ~ READ MORE on the sign to the right. >
From the parking lot, it was just a short walk to the edge of Two Medicine Creek – and the clearest water I’ve seen in my life, burbling down a bed of multi-colored stones. A burbling creek has got to be number one on the list of nature’s stress-relievers – not that we’ve had much to be stressed about in the last five weeks.
A Short Walk to the Falls
Just by sliding a little to my left I could see the falls through trees, but a small bridge led us to another path for a closer look. This was a very interesting falls, with a pretty impressive lower section coming out of the cliff – as well as a smaller falls at the top.
It turns out that Running Eagle Falls is sometimes called “Trick Falls”, because in dryer times when water levels are low, the water pours into a sinkhole and comes out of the cliff as one falls. Today we have two falls, and when the water levels are at their highest, it overflows both sections and appears to be one falls again.
Check out “National Parks with T“, who also visited near the end of June – but in 2018 – when the falls were gushing from both levels. That must have been something to see!
The Perfect Day by the River
Although we didn’t see any large wildlife, we saw some little guys – just hanging near this lovely river on a beautiful day in June.
Lower Two Medicine Lake
We stopped along the way for fabulous views of Lower Two Medicine Lake. The water was the most beautiful shade of turquoise, and wildflowers dot the hillside.
Two Medicine Lake
Just past the southeast corner of Glacier National Park, we pulled into Two Medicine Lake. Fellow tourists were few and far between unlike other parts of Glacier, and the lake and its iconic Sinopah were stunning.
“Sinopah. This dramatically-shaped peak is the major landmark of the Two Medicine Valley. Named after the daughter of a powerful Blackfeet Chief, it makes for irresistible photography, tucked as it is at the back shore of Two Medicine Lake.” ~ READ MORE
Get in a Little Walking
Jim was happy to sit on a park bench to read his book while I set off into the woods for a little sight-seeing. Headed for Paradise Point and/or Twin Falls, I was prepared for a two-mile walk which would give Jim plenty of time to read a few chapters.
Shortly after I got started, up came the first signpost. My destination was actually SIX miles away (and six miles back!). In looking at the map to write this post, Paradise Point and Twin Falls are not even close to each other! I definitely messed this stop up, and next time we come back we’ll do the boat and take a guided tour to the falls. At least then I might find it!
“Climb aboard the charming historic vessel Sinopah, built in 1926, the oldest wooden boat in our fleet. Relax and enjoy all this “secret” valley offers, take in the scenery of Sinopah and Rising Wolf mountains while learning about the rich Blackfeet tribal history surrounding the Two Medicine area.
Upon docking at the head of the lake you can choose to remain on the boat or disembark and begin a self-guided hike or hike with one of our guides to Twin Falls and catch a later return boat.” ~ READ MORE
I’m Hiking in Bear Grass?
I talked to a ranger for a while who was stationed in the area to answer any questions that visitors may have. I asked him about the beautiful cream-colored flowers (pictured below) which were growing along the trail. They turned out to be Bear Grass. Yep, and guess who likes those flowers! As much as I’d like to see a bear up close, I really wouldn’t.
“Bear grass comes from observations that bears like to eat the young fleshy stems, and Grizzly bears reportedly have been known to use bear grass leaves in winter dens during hibernation. It’s a popular plant for many other species who use it for food or cover: from bees and beetles to rodents and elk. Though not a true grass, other common names include Indian basket grass, deer grass, elk grass, and soap grass.” READ MORE
We finished off our visit with Bison Brats at the Two Medicine Camp Store. I’m not sure where I got this brave, but they were actually delicious! I love vacations!
What a Fabulous Pullout!
This entire day has been filled with beautiful scenery and by now you know that our car knows to pull over at most viewpoints, especially if there’s a pair of binoculars and/or the words “Scenic Overlook” on a sign nearby. This stop was WAY more than just a pullout!
“St. Mary Overlook. Learn about the cultural and ecological history of the St. Mary Valley from the St. Mary Overlook. Located on the Blackfeet Reservation, approximately two miles south of St. Mary on Hwy 89, this picturesque viewing area features striking iron teepees designed by artist Duane After Buffalo.
The aftermath of the Red Eagle & Reynolds Creek Fires can be seen in charred stands of trees and the new vegetation beginning to line their undergrowth.” ~ READ MORE
Home (away from home) at Last
We checked into our 50s-style motel at St. Mary Lodge and Resort right at 4pm. As you’ll see from the first photo below (besides our filthy car), this motel was not the most glamorous of accommodations. But it was clean, had a king-sized bed, an updated bathroom, and it was literally steps from the St. Mary entrance to Glacier National Park. I actually did walk to the sign.
After all of our exploring today, we headed to Kip’s Beer Garden for a beverage. This was a really nice place – covered and set up for music, but not today. We probably would have stayed longer had a whole lot of chatty tourists not come in right after us. So instead we went across the street to Frog’s Cantina for great burritos and a one-man band who was excellent and very relaxing.
Perfect Ending to a Perfect Day
Up Next: GTSR West to Logan Pass
Happy trails,
Barb
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