Today we left the Texas Timeshares in Lakeway to continue our escape from Wisconsin’s winter. For the first time on this trek, we were able to enjoy one of our favorite road trip experiences. Instead of spending an hour at a restaurant or the alternative – slamming fast food or choking down a roller dog at a gas stop – we love stopping at rest areas. There we can take advantage of the picnic area for lunch out of our cooler, which usually makes for healthier choices and a cheaper meal.

Click on the first photo in each group and scroll to see the square photos at full size.
< Visit the first post of this series – Escape the Tundra 2019

Coke County, TX Rest Stop

We stopped at the rest area in Coke County, Texas where we found a really nice picnic area with charcoal grills (if you have lots of time) with a cotton field adjacent to it. This beautiful building (with facilities) had a great display of sculptures that symbolize the ancient astronomers of the Concho people. As a lover of metal art with a fascination with ancient beliefs, it was very interesting.

“There are places in the world where it seems ancient people possessed an extraordinary knowledge of the movements of the sun, moon and planets. By observing the cyclic patterns of the seasons, they were able to make predictions that would help them in their daily lives. The most celebrated of these sites include old-world Stonehenge and the new-world observatories of the ancient Maya. Now there is evidence that such a site existed in Texas not far from where you now stand. The site is on a bluff of the Concho River, northwest of the town of Paint Rock.” – from one of the plaques in the Visitor Center

Break’s Over

After lunch it was time to hit the road. We drove through miles and miles (and miles) of oil fields, and the smell and the ravaged land gave us headaches and made us want to check into buying an electric car.

Although we had hoped to visit the Carlsbad Caverns yet today, we could tell that it was not going to happen. We altered our plan and went straight to our hotel in Carlsbad. There we started several one-night stays in hotels en route to our next longer-term accommodations. We enjoyed a relaxing evening in Carlsbad, with dinner out and an early bedtime. Since the city of Carlsbad is about 45 minutes from the caverns, we had an early departure to arrive at the caverns when they opened at 8.

In the morning, we drove thru fog as thick as pea soup, which finally burned off. After the turn-off leading to the caverns, there were several areas where we stopped to take photos and read signs. Had there not been signs saying there were caverns anywhere nearby, we would have been totally clueless. It just looked like the desert to us! We wound around and around until finally reaching the Visitor Center.

Since we were two of the first visitors of the day, there were four rangers lined up to help. When one asked which one of them we’d prefer, I said, “Hmm, I don’t know – eeny, meeny, miny…“ That’s where the fourth gentleman interrupted and said (as he pointed to his name badge), “Hello! My name is Moe, how can I help you today?” And it really was! We all laughed for a bit and Moe explained some options for our visit. He explained that:

“The Natural Entrance Trail is a steep 1¼-mile descent, equivalent to about 79 stories, from the cave entrance to the Big Room. This approximate one-hour tour is recommended only for those in good physical condition.”

With that said, we decided to take the elevator down to save time (and our knees). That gave us some extra time to check out the Visitor Center while we waited for the first rapid descent at 8:30.

I’d highly recommend a visit this time of year and right away when it opens in the morning. We’ve been to several caves, but have never had a self-guided tour where we were completely alone for most of our visit. There was an audio tour available, but we opted against it. It was awesome to stand in complete silence deep inside the earth, with the only sounds coming from dripping stalactites. Sounds a little creepy, but it was absolutely fantastic!

There was a Big Room Shortcut that would have taken less time, but once we entered the Big Room and experienced its immensity, we wanted to see as much as we could. Once we saw the areas that we would have missed had we taken that shortcut, we both agreed it was a good decision.

The wire ladder in the photo above was installed in 1924 during a six-month exploration and survey sponsored by the National Geographic Society. The ladder descends 90 feet into the lower cave. How would you like to be dangling from that, into the literal unknown? No thanks! The Hall of Giants is pictured below.

About 3/4 way through our three hour visit, we met up with a ranger who answered questions and wished us well as we travel to more National Parks with another government shutdown looming. Several other folks passed us as we gawked, and most respected the silence that surrounded us.

This cavern is HUGE! With names like Bottomless Pit and Bat Roost, Lion’s Tail (shown above left), Temple of the Sun and Rock of Ages, we knew we were looking at the history of the earth. And what an amazing history it is! And this was just the Big Room. There are over 120 rooms here. Some are available on ranger-led tours and more are still being discovered. Amazing!

National Parks Passport Stamp

After leaving the caverns, we went back into Texas for a bit. Even though we didn’t have time to explore, we made a quick stop at the Guadalupe Mountains National Park Visitor Center for a stamp in my National Parks Passport. I’m blaming the baby boomer/collector generation in me for needing to get them all lol. If we’re ever in the neighborhood again, it may warrant a visit for a closer look.

Because we waited till this morning and then spent so much time in the caverns, our timetable was out of whack. By the time we arrived in Bisbee, AZ, it was dark and we were unable to explore the town like we had hoped. Another snafu – arriving on Saturday night meant nothing was going to be open tomorrow morning. Shall we stick around and really throw our schedule off, or cut our losses – knowing that some day we’ll have to come back. We both agreed to stick to our schedule. Arizona is one place I can visit regularly and not tire of the cactus and dry heat.

We stayed in the Reading Room at the Schoolhouse Inn Bed and Breakfast in Bisbee. I slept very comfortably that night with thoughts Grandma dancing through my head.

Friendly Conversation

Breakfast the next morning was nothing extraordinary like some B&Bs we’ve stayed at, but it was homey, fresh and the coffee and conversation flowed, especially with a woman and her grandson from New Mexico.

We talked about Tombstone, where they had visited the day before and we were headed today. They had a wonderful time and recommended that when we stop there today that we delve deeper into the old ghost town than just the gunfight that happens in the street throughout the day.

They live near the Aztec Ruins and they also recommended a stop there, since we’ll be passing nearby later on in our trip. We said our goodbyes, checked out and did a quick drive-by through Bisbee and headed on down the road.

Tombstone, AZ was originally going to be a quick stop, since I was convinced it was just a tourist trap, but after our conversation this morning, we thought we’d give it the time that it deserves.

Built as the Cochise County Courthouse in 1882, the beautiful Victorian Building pictured above became the Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park in 1960, and is home to a great museum. By now you know how we feel about visitor centers and museums. Since they give a general background of what we are going to see during our visit, they are usually our first stop.

This museum houses lots of old furnishings, weapons, safes and lots of insight into the states of mind of the men and women of that time, as well as photos and the names of all the sheriffs of the county from 1881-1931. Many stories about Doc Holliday, Billie the Kid and the Earp brothers (and their ex-ladies of the evening wives) added to the interest.

Doin’ all that learnin’ worked us up a terrible thirst, so we high-tailed it over to the Crystal Palace for a cold one. It was fun chatting with the bartender – even though he was wearing a Patriot jersey and the Super Bowl pre-game was about to start. Since the Packers weren’t in it, I usually don’t care who wins, but since I’m more of a supporter of the underdog – that is certainly not the Patriots!

In keeping with the state of mind of the men back then, after our cold beers we thought a house of ill repute was a good idea – well, a former one anyway. Since it was boarded up for many years, this place is totally authentic and pretty cool. We got a nice intro in the lobby, which included a view of the paper thin stairs that went up both sides for LOTS of “visits”. The intro was free, but as you might expect, seeing the back room required a fee.

“The Bird Cage Theatre opened on December 26, 1881. It was owned by Lottie and William “Billy” Hutchinson. Hutchison, a variety performer, originally intended to present respectable family shows like he’d seen in San Francisco that were thronged by large crowds. After the Theatre opened, they hosted a Ladies Night for the respectable women of Tombstone, who could attend for free. But the economics of Tombstone didn’t support their aspirations. They soon canceled the Ladies Night and began offering baser entertainment that appealed to the rough mining crowd. – READ MORE

We worked up quite an appetite with all our drinkin’ and whorin’ so we’re off to Big Nose Kate’s Saloon for some chow (and another beer). As you may know, Big Nose Kate, was a prostitute and common-law wife of Doc Holliday. It was a really fun day and I’m glad we spent some time here.

Another reason that we didn’t want to dilly dally in Bisbee this morning was the fact that we had a 2-1/2 hour drive from Tombstone to our hotel in Florence, which was near some of Jim’s friends from his hometown in Iowa. We continued our journey north and arrived just in time for check-in.

While we were here, along with seeing friends, we got a glimpse into snow-birding the parked-RV way. Since our friends own their RV and it stays there year ’round, they pay a pretty modest HOA fee in exchange for many amenities, including a swimming pool, a gym, a Pickle Ball court (which is all the rage down here I’m told), a gathering place for parties and potlucks and more. This gathering place houses a weekly happy hour and gatherings where folks from the states represented in the park rotate to organize a celebration of their state.

Wray and Theresa keep a car on site, so they can fly down after Christmas with their family in November and fly back home as the temperatures start to rise in Arizona and at home. Sounds like the perfect scenario to me.

After an evening of dinner, drinks and laughs, we left for our hotel. In the morning the four of us traveled about 10 miles for breakfast in Coolidge, where we had hoped to stop by the Casa Grande Ruins National Monument. Unfortunately by the time we got there, the drizzle had turned to a downpour. There’s another good reason to stop back, as if seeing our friends again isn’t incentive enough.

Since they had plans that day, we said our goodbyes, but they suggested a stop at Saint Anthony’s Greek Orthodox Monastery. Since we only had a three hour drive to our next accommodations in Phoenix, we decided to check it out. You’ll see by the boat-load of photos that I was truly impressed.

After entering the grounds and parking the car, our first stop was at an area just inside, near the bookstore. There, an older woman made sure that we were in the proper attire. Jim was good to go in his long pants and long-sleeved shirt and my spring jacket was good to cover my arms. We both had closed-toed shoes, but women need a scarf to cover our hair, as well as a long skirt. With a quick jaunt to the car, I retrieved a scarf from my stowed-away winter garments. I was able to get a loaner long skirt from the monastery’s bin of acceptable clothing (to be worn over my jeans), and we were all set. Let me tell you, that was not a good look for me, but it was so worth it to visit this beautiful place.

“In the summer of 1995, six monks arrived in the southern Arizona desert to establish St. Anthony’s Monastery, carrying with them the sacred, millenial heritage of the Holy Mountain, Athos. Since early Christian history, this steep and rocky peninsula in northern Greece proved to be a haven for ancient Egyptian, Cappadocian, and Constantinopolitan monastics. Thus, it enjoyed a direct link with the greatest monastic establishments of ancient Christianity, preserving intact the wisdom of the holy fathers and the sacred tradition of the ancient Church. Today, the Holy Mountain consists of 20 independent monasteries, and numerous sketes and hermitages, housing Orthodox Christian monks from all over the world.

Upon their arrival the fathers began with the necessary construction work, building first the main church, living quarters for the monks, the dining hall, and guest facilities. A vegetable garden, a small vineyard, citrus orchards, and an olive grove dot the landscape. An elaborate system of gardens, pathways, and gazebos with Spanish fountains truly render the monastery and its extensive grounds an oasis in the desert.” – READ MORE

There are at least six other chapels, each dedicated to different Saints. All of their interiors looked similar with gorgeous chandeliers hanging from a center dome and windows that let in outside light. There were stunning “stations” where I observed folks praying and kissing the feet or hands of the holy figures that were painted on each. They did several hand gestures, similar to the stations of the cross on theirs heads and shoulders and some knelt and dipped down several times at each station. Not that I stared, but the dedication that they expressed was very admirable and really quite beautiful. We certainly respected their privacy and I only took photos (without flash) in a discreet manner when no one was around as to not disturb their prayer time.

It had rained that morning, but after a while the sun shown brightly. The blue skies and puffy clouds, along with the wet tiles and walkways just accentuated the beauty of this place.

The brickwork, tile, stonework and mosaics are just gorgeous with each chapel having a slightly different look. The palm trees stood tall and the desert landscaping was there to remind us that even though this is a gorgeous and lush place, we are still in the desert. I was fascinated at the beauty around every turn.

Our next stop was to the east of the monastery. It could be seen from up to five miles away, but we had to drive out of the grounds a ways to another parking area and climb a hill and some stairs to get a closer look. Completed in 2008, this is the newest chapel and is dedicated to the Prophet Elias. I was required to keep my long skirt and scarf on to go inside.

Views of the desert were endless from this vantage point and the stairway and railing were very inviting as I wound my way to the top. As I approached the front of the chapel and attempted to open the door, I discovered it was locked. Although disappointed, I decided to check out the views from all points of this perch well above the desert floor. The bells behind the chapel had an old Spanish design, and I can imagine they can be heard from quite a ways away.

As I finished up my visit and started back down the stairs, a woman who was on her way up asked if I would like to see inside the chapel. Of course the answer to that question was yes!

Again, the interior looked pretty similar to the rest of the chapels, with one exception – this one had a beautiful blue ceiling! I wonder if the plan is to give the other domes an upgrade and more color as well. If anyone visits, please let me know!

I can’t help feeling blessed with the timing of this day. We went from a downpour in Coolidge to drizzle here and on to magnificent blue skies, puffy clouds and wet tiles in the early afternoon to accentuate the beauty of the stones, the landscaping and building designs. The woman with the key to open the doors of the new chapel with the incredible blue ceiling, was just icing on the cake. And now it’s clouding up again. I better get back to the car!

And the blessings continued as we got settled into our next accommodations at Cibola Vista Resort and Spa in Peoria, AZ, where we’ll stay for the next six nights.

Next up: Valley of the Sun to Red Rock Country

Happy trails,
Barb