Our Inn on the River
Although we only spent one full day in Trempealeau, it left a lasting impression. With a winery, a wildlife refuge, a lock and dam close by, and plenty of trains (very close by) – our little Inn on the River was just perfect.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit GRR: La Crosse to St. Paul
Time to Chill
After three pretty full days in La Crosse, it was time to move on – and slow down! And Trempealeau was the perfect place to do just that. Not that we just sat in our room, because you know that would never happen! But we did sit on our small deck several times with a beverage to watch the trains, bikes, boats, and barges go by. All of our outings were close and we were blessed with perfect weather on our one day here on the Mississippi.
When we arrived in town after our wine tasting at El Maro Vineyard, Cat Daddy’s Bar & Grill was right on the river and called our names for a highly-recommended breaded tenderloin. Since too many folks had the same idea, smash burgers became a great alternative. After a great meal, this was the perfect time to check out our deck and cheers to Trempealeau.
Two Nights ON the River
With just our parking lot, a street, and the tracks between us and the river, the Inn on the River really lived up to its name. Lock and Dam #6 was just downriver and the village of Trempealeau was right outside our door. We couldn’t get much more chill than this!
Oops
It didn’t take us long to find out that we were also going to be up close and personal with trains. It was cool at first, then we realized just how often they were coming by (and just how many cars each had)! Then we settled in and didn’t think much about them – because that’s life on the Mississippi!
Besides, we have trains go by (in the distance) at home on summer nights when the windows are open and, actually they kinda lull me to sleep. And since we’re (obviously) by a T-intersection with no cross traffic, there’s no horn – which is the most annoying part!
Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge
“Come and explore your National Wildlife Refuge! Whether you prefer to enjoy wildlife from the comfort or your car, by bike, or on a nature walk you can do it all here. The 6,808-acre Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge lies within the Mississippi flyway, along the Mississippi River in western Wisconsin.” – READ MORE
The next morning we saw three deer on the way to Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge, but while there only the usual chippies and squirrels, and pelicans across the lily pads entertained us. The last photo isn’t very good, but it shows another area with a pond’s more crusty green layer. The turtle was resting on a log that was way long enough for a few more of his buddies to join in a turtle stack, but he was sunning solo today.
Although we had lots of water views and the observation deck was fantastic, I’m sure the spring or fall would be more entertaining when migration is in full swing. But today was perfect with no people around to distract us from the scenes of nature.
Like yesterday’s visit to the Onalaska Overlook, this refuge is part of the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge.
“Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge has been a haven for migratory birds, fish, wildlife and people since 1924. The refuge stretches 261 river miles from Wabasha, Minnesota to Rock Island, Illinois, and protects more than 240,000 acres of Mississippi River floodplain. The refuge hosts more than 3.7 million annual visits for hunting, fishing, wildlife observations, and other recreation. The refuge is a Wetland of International Importance and a Globally Important Bird Area.” ~ READ MORE at the link
Perrot State Park
I regret not spending more time at Perrot State Park. It is “nestled among 500-foot bluffs where the Trempealeau and Mississippi rivers meet”, and had I realized that the two rivers meet right by Horseshoe Falls in Brady’s Bluff Prairie, that may have warranted some more time here. We did enjoy the Visitor Center and both bought t-shirts to remember our short visit.
“Enjoy breathtaking river views from the hiking trails in this park, known for its natural, archaeological, and historical resources. There is direct access for bicyclists from the campground to the 24-mile Great River State Trail. There is also a marked canoe trail in Trempealeau Bay. Canoes can be rented at the park in season.” ~ READ MORE
“If you haven’t fished Ol’ Man Mississip, forget about any preconceived notions you may have as far as rivers are concerned. Because Ol’ Man River isn’t a river at all. In fact, he’s a hundred rivers and a thousand lakes and more sloughs than you could explore in a lifetime. He is creeks, bayous, ditches, puddles, and thousands and thousands of impenetrable lotus beds that break big yellow flowers out above green pads.” ~ Mel Ellis, 1949. A History of Fish and Fishing in the Upper Mississippi River, 1954 [from a sign near the train view]
Great River State Trail. This 24-mile trail travels through prairies and backwaters of the upper Mississippi River valley. Built on an abandoned Chicago-Northwestern railroad line, the trail has a finely crushed limestone surface suitable for walking and bicycling for much of the year and snowmobiling, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter. The Great River trail is within a larger area called the Mississippi Flyway and passes through two National Wildlife Refuges. The Great River State Trail links to the La Crosse River State Trail via a short road route in the city of La Crosse.
Another Lock and Dam!
We’ve been checking out Lock and Dam #6 from our motel, but today we’ll see it up close! A covered area provided an elevated view of just what was going on. Hoping to see a huge barge come through, we had to settle for a fishing boat and a pontoon. It was still pretty interesting to be this close and read more information about what a vital role locks play in keeping the water level at a safe depth for barges to safely pass through.
While commercial operators pay some fees, the passage is free for pleasure craft. If one of each comes up to the lock at the same time, the scheduled barge or passenger boat will receive priority. And the wait seemed pretty lengthy, as it takes a while for the lock to fill and empty.
“There are 29 locks and dams on the upper Mississippi River, which are located between Minneapolis and Granite City, IL. These structures create a series of “pools” or reservoirs that maintain a minimum 9-foot navigational channel for barges and boats. Downstream of St. Louis, the river is deep enough that locks and dams are not needed.” ~ AI generated
Time for a Break!
We’ve had our eye on a little dive bar right around the corner for two days now! In keeping with the Great River Road theme, Muddy Waters Saloon was the perfect spot to take a break for a beer on a pretty hot day! After another break back on our deck, we got spruced up for some dinner, right across the street.
The Trempealeau Hotel, Restaurant and Saloon was a beautiful place! I thought I took pictures, but they’re nowhere to be found. We both had the Canadian Walleye and it was fantastic w/wild rice and street corn. I had a drink that was 2oz. Absolute Mandarin with Lemonade and topped with Cran/raspberry that was also fantastic! The commute was grueling (ha ha), but we made it back home safely to pack and relax. Tomorrow we’re off to see our friends in Minneapolis!
Next up: Excellent Tour Guides!
Happy trails,
Barb
