Georgia’s Oldest City
As our winter road trip continues, Savannah was very welcoming and we settled in for some fun. We admired the lovely homes on our walkabouts, and the magnolias were emerging in lovely clusters. Historic venues and specialty cocktails kept us entertained for another four-day visit.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit Southeast to Sunshine
Excited for our Return
This was our second stay at the Studio Homes at Ellis Square in Savannah. Although our one-bedroom deluxe was a lot smaller than our first one, this time around we had a small balcony where we could spy on walkers below and into the windows of the office building across the street. I have nothing in the least bit interesting to report about either of those opportunities, dammit.
Ellis Square was named in honor of Henry Ellis – the second Royal Governor, and the Old City Market was located here back in the day. In 2010 this Square was resurrected from the ashes of Savannah’s urban sprawl and reclaimed its position in the northernmost row of the Squares – a short walk to the Savannah River and its infamous River Street.
Last time we were here was election day in 2016, and we spent an entire afternoon bar-hopping on River Street. Rather than go into all of that here, check out Savannah: River Street. Here is a great map with the layout of the squares, the dot routes, and also the CAT routes to get you where you want to go. Savannah is very walkable, but we decided to catch a ride on more than one occasion.
Today we got a little later start, so we were able to have some lunch before we left our condo. It was a short walk to catch the dot and after lots of stops, we arrived at Forsyth Park where we began our exploration.
Free Transportation. The fountain at Forsyth Park is pictured above. While the park is not considered one of the Squares, it is certainly a gathering place of beauty and history! Today we took the dot south to Forsyth and strolled back to our condo, stopping wherever our hearts desired. What a fantastic way to see this city.
“As the oldest city in the state of Georgia, Savannah has a long and colorful history chock-full of interesting characters and beautiful locales. From manicured parks and horse-drawn carriages to ornate antebellum architecture, it’s no wonder Savannah is one of the most visited cities in the South.” ~ READ MORE
“Way back in 1733, when General James Oglethorpe first placed boots upon the soil we now call Savannah, he had a grand scheme for laying the city out in a manner which made sense, was easy to navigate and gave the citizens of this new city places to do things out in public. So, General Oglethorpe came up with the idea of laying the city of Savannah out in a grid pattern with Squares, which are open areas made for public use, spaced out throughout this grid. These Squares were originally used to practice and drill for the militia, but today they are gathering places of beauty and history.” – READ MORE about Savannah’s Squares from Savannah.com
Georgia Historical Society
When we checked in at the desk of the Georgia Historical Society, we were told that only researchers were allowed into the area beyond the displays in the front. Those historical displays were plentiful and very interesting, so we were OK with that. I was able to get a few photos of the restricted area, which was quite impressive.
“For nearly a century and a half, this architectural jewel in Savannah’s Historic Landmark District has housed one of the most unique and oldest collections of Georgia history in the nation.” ~ READ MORE
The Jepson House Education Center
Although we were not able to get inside the Jepson House, its history is worth noting. There are a couple of lovely shots of its interior at the link.
“With a history as grand as its appearance, the Jepson House Education Center will now serve the Georgia Historical Society as the hub for history-based education around the state, helping GHS to continue its time-honored mission of teaching Georgia and American history for generations to come.
The magnificent building that today is the Jepson House Education Center was part of Georgia’s history even before it was acquired by the Georgia Historical Society.” ~ READ MORE
Mercer-Williams House
“The Mercer-Williams House was designed by New York architect John S. Norris for General Hugh W. Mercer, great-grandfather of celebrated songwriter Johnny Mercer. Construction began in 1860 and was subsequently interrupted by the Civil War. It was eventually completed in 1868, after General Mercer sold the unfinished structure to John R. Wilder. Thus, no Mercer ever actually lived in the house that bears their name. In Savannah, the majority of historic homes use the name of the home’s original family in addition to the most prominent family.” ~ READ MORE
This was a fabulous old house with a very interesting tour! No photos were allowed inside, but I got a few of its equally-fantastic exterior. Our guide kept referring to the non-fiction novel by John Berendt in 1994, and the movie “In the Garden of Good and Evil” which was adapted by Clint Eastwood in 1997. Since only bits and pieces of the movie came back to me during the tour, I decided to spend the $4 to rewatch the movie before I wrote this post.
The book is based on real-life events that occurred in the 1980s, which depicted large parties attended by Savannah’s elite – politicians, law enforcement, and other wealthy locals. Colorful characters were sprinkled in to get a feel for this truly unique city and several scenes were filmed in Forsyth Square and one of the local cemeteries.
Since the “real” Jim Williams was an art collector, the house is filled with antique furniture and collections – including a Ming Dynasty vase and the dagger that killed Rasputin. Our guide also referred to Kevin Spacey – who played Jim Williams in the movie – and the anniversary parties they throw in the house to this day.
If you’re interested, you should check out 8 Ways to Experience “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” which highlights several locations in Savannah which were vital to the plot.
Andrew Low House Museum
Our late February visit to the Andrew Low House Museum (known for its gorgeous gardens) was not ideal, but the house itself was beautiful with mostly-original furnishings. We arrived shortly after another couple, so we joined the barely-begun tour and our guide quickly brought us up to speed. In our haste I got very few pictures, but of course the website has some great ones. In fact, I borrowed the exterior shot below from their website.
Like so many stories of that timeframe, it all started with a young immigrant from [insert original country here] arriving in the United States. Andrew Low II was seventeen when he left Scotland and became one of the most successful businessmen in the thriving seaport of Savannah in the 1940s. He and his wife Sarah commissioned the building of this beautiful home, but Sarah died shortly before construction was complete in 1849.
Andrew remarried five years later and he and Mary’s son William, married Juliette “Daisy” Gordon, founder of the Girl Scouts, in 1886. William and Juliette spent most of their time in Scotland and England, but they lived in the home when they visited Savannah. The Girl Scouts still use the carriage house for meetings and had we timed THAT a little better we could have picked up a few boxes of Thin Mints during cookie season.
Juliette “Daisy” Low and the Girl Scouts
“Over a century ago, before women had the right to vote, Juliette Gordon Low launched what later became a worldwide movement, the Girl Scouts. Encouraging girls to embrace their intellect, their athleticism, and their unique individuality was, at the time, a somewhat radical idea.” ~ READ MORE about Daisy
Time for a Break!
After all that walking and touring we were a little parched. We had several places to check out for refreshments that were recommended to us by our friends who know their cocktails! First stop was at The Olde Pink House Restaurant/Bar where one Pink Lady was not enough, so we had another. I think we were at The Arches Bar which was around the left side on street level below the actual restaurant. The menu looked fantastic, but we were just thirsty by this point in our day.
“There is no one more suited to craft the vodka for our refreshing Pink Lady cocktail than Atomica’s Smith Mathews, a lowcountry native known for creating some of the most flavorful and authentic libations in the south. All things raspberry come through on the nose and make Atomica’s vodka a perfect complement to our fresh-squeezed lemonade. Fruity, refreshing and perfectly suited to cool you off in this South Georgia heat, our Pink Lady cocktail is just as famous as our signature Crispy Scored Flounder entrée. ” ~ READ MORE about their signature cocktails!
Then we were off to The Bootlegger Speakeasy on River Street for yummy smoked Old Fashions. At $19 each, they were pricey, but potent. So one WAS enough!
Churchill’s Restaurant and Pub was our last stop for a fabulous dinner on the rooftop. The Roast Beef and Bangers & Mash were fabulous and just the right amount to soak up our beverages!! We came here twice on our last visit, but sat in their iconic British pub which was absolutely gorgeous. I’m not sure if the rooftop area was even open then or if the weather wasn’t conducive to outdoor dining, but we’ll definitely do this again on our next visit!
Next up: To Drink, or not to Drink?
Happy trails,
Barb
