City in the Pines
I loved the picture in our condo living room so much, I used it as the header photo! Although we were only in Flagstaff for three nights, it made quite an impression. I was a little overzealous when coming up with the itinerary for our stay, so there’s plenty left over to do when we return in a couple of years.
To start at the beginning of this series, visit The Spectacular Southwest.
The Scenic Route
Since this morning’s drive from Peoria to Flagstaff was a short one, we requested a late checkout. A slightly longer route allowed for another “adrenaline-packed” drive and a stop in Williams for a little Route 66, arriving in Flagstaff from the west just about time for a brewery break.
As part of our journey, we took Hwy. 89 from Wickenburg to Prescott for its curvy mountain drive and excellent views of the valley. Because I was driving and Jim wasn’t looking, we didn’t get any pictures – but check out this video. Someone on a motorcycle was clearly enjoying the ride. At one point in the video, the oncoming traffic disappears and the road becomes a double-decker!
White Spar is an exhilarating 16 miles, with 109 “heart-stopping corners” that are not for the faint of heart. If you can stomach the video, you could be ready for the drive, because it’s not nearly as stressful on four wheels – although Jim might not agree.
Some Route 66
This route provided another brunch in Prescott after our wicked drive. This time we sat across from the beautiful painting of horses along a river that’s shown below. Last time we were here, we sat in a booth that was also flanked with Wisconsin license plates so again, we felt right at home.
While I was writing this post, I discovered that the Lone Spur is permanently closed. Since Jim complained of stomach pains halfway to Flagstaff, I was wondering if that had anything to do with the closure, but it turns out the owner just didn’t pay his suppliers, or employees.
We had planned for some window shopping and a stop at the Grand Canyon Brewery in Williams, but with a blustery change in the weather and as the aforementioned stomach pains got worse, we skipped the rest of our 66 plans and arrived at the Club Wyndham Flagstaff. Nestled in the woods, our Vrbo was very spacious, beautifully updated, and close to lots of good stuff to do.
City in the Pines
Usually we’re just passing through Flagstaff, except for a decade ago when I needed an Arizona fix and Jim was working way too much. I spent a couple of days here, but mostly ventured to the surrounding areas and didn’t check out what the city had to offer.
This time our plan was to see both, but things don’t always go as planned. I ended up doing all of the exploring on my own as Jim recuperated, and we decided to save a whole lotta things for our next visit when Jim could enjoy them too.
Riordan Mansion State Historic Park
If you have a National Park pass, a free self-guided tour of the grounds and exterior of the house is available when you grab a handout in the Visitor Center. But I would highly recommend the tour to see the inside as well, and hear some history of the family and our changing United States in the early 1900s.
“The duplex-style Riordan Mansion remains one of the finest examples of American Arts and Crafts-style architecture open to the public today. Designed by the architect of the impressive El Tovar Hotel at the Grand Canyon, Charles Whittlesey, the homes were built in 1904 with indoor plumbing, hot and cold running water, central heat, and electric lights, reflecting the most modern technology and design of the time.
The Riordan brothers moved to Flagstaff in the 1880’s as managers and then owners of the largest employer, the Arizona Lumber and Timber Company. At the heart of the Flagstaff community for over 50 years, their efforts advocating for progressive improvements included educational facilities such as the Normal School, which grew into today’s Northern Arizona University and the creation of Coconino County with Flagstaff as its county seat. They also recruited scientific institutions, such as Lowell Observatory, and the Fort Valley Experimental Forest Station that continue to benefit Flagstaff residents today.
Seen by guided tour only, the interiors of the Riordan family homes look essentially as they did in 1904. The homes showcase all original family belongings including fine examples of early Stickley furniture.” ~ READ MORE
There were a number of folks on the tour this morning and our guide shared stories of two brothers, who married two sisters and built two identical, but separate homes that were connected by one family-gathering room. We only toured one side and were able to walk around the outside when we finished up.
As mansions go, I’ve been to a lot more opulent ones, but the Riordan Mansion was built in the craftsman style – with elements of Frank Lloyd Wright’s houses – so I enjoyed the tour quite a lot. This home was not decorated in the glitz and glam of most mansions of this time period – although with forty rooms and over 13,000 square-feet of living area, they had plenty of room to stretch. And they did have all of the latest inventions – including the very first car in town – parked in their seven-car garage!
Interesting historical signs gave us some reading materials while we waited for our tour to get started.
The Interior
The interior was a bit rough, but you would be too if you were born in 1904! It was very homey and rustic like the great southwest right outside its doors. Our first stop was a game room in the common area between the two houses. A pool table and piano offered some fun and a decorated wood panel was displayed – taken from the first tree that the Riordan brothers logged (third photo). We continued into the kitchen and dining room.
The Tour Continues
In keeping with the craftsman design (and since ponderosa pines were plentiful), the furniture was beautiful, but didn’t look too comfortable. The “swing room” was interesting, with a full-on porch swing in the center of the room that could face the fireplace in winter, and be rotated in summer for views of the gardens in bloom.
Finally, there was a gallery with some family photos, some signs of the times, and a board that explains the whole concept behind the Craftsman design. All in all, it was a very interesting tour and I’d highly recommend it for some history of Flagstaff and the early days of the logging industry.
All Around Flagstaff
By now you know how much we love Route 66! Flagstaff makes for an iconic stop with 14 miles of the original road, sitting among gorgeous ponderosa pines. I’ve driven through here many times – beginning way back on winter trips with my parents to see family in California. That time of year we’d usually get snowed-in here and be forced to stay a night or two. I can’t believe it has been this long for us to stay here willingly!
Flagstaff is also a great hub to see the Grand Canyon, Sunset Crater, and countless other wonders of nature. Today I just caught a glimpse of the city itself with several great stops.
The Flagstaff Visitor Center is located in Flagstaff Station – the historic depot built in 1926. In 1971 Amtrak took over operation of the AT&SF’s passenger trains and just celebrated its 100th Anniversary this January. With an elevation just over 6,900 feet, it is one of the highest train stations in the Amtrak system.
Flagstaff’s First Train Depot
Just across the tracks from the Visitor Center is Flagstaff’s first train depot that was built in 1886 by the A&P Railroad. Originally made of wood, it burned down in 1889 and was replaced by this stone structure. A nice little park area has a marvelous statue called the Gandy Dancer Statue created by Clyde “Ross” Morgan. Its plaque pays homage to the men who built the railroads and the workers’ impact on the local community.
“The workers who laid tracks across the country were known as Gandy Dancers. The name is sometimes attributed to a Gandy Tool Co. that manufactured the tools used to build railroads, though the existence of such a company has been debated. Nevertheless, workers used song to keep their rhythm when laying tracks.” ~ READ MORE
Only a Glimpse
If I had Jim by my side, we would have stopped at all of the places I stopped in Flagstaff, plus the Mother Road Brewery, Sunset Crater, the Lowell Observatory, and the Galaxy Diner. Now you know why he needs a break from time to time!
“The Museum of Northern Arizona sits at the base of the San Francisco Peaks, on homelands sacred to Native Americans throughout the region. We honor their past, present, and future generations, who have lived here for millennia and will forever call this place home.”
The Museum Highlights Tour. “Trained docents lead the way, telling stories and providing insights. Tours can range from a quick overview of the entire museum to deeper explorations of areas of interest to your group, whether that’s learning about the many Indigenous cultures of the Colorado Plateau, fascinating geologic formations, evidence of dinosaurs and other ancient creatures, or pottery, jewelry, textiles, and fine art.” ~ READ MORE
This was an absolutely fabulous find, and be sure to take a free tour when you visit! Our first stop was the Native Peoples of the Colorado Plateau exhibit. Similar to the Heard Museum in Phoenix and Besh Ba Gowah in Globe, this section has an extensive collection of pottery, weavings, kachinas and information about the people that thrived here for years.
This exhibition “reflects tribal histories, values, and cultures of ten tribes of the Colorado Plateau: Acoma, Dilzhe’e Apache, Diné (Navajo), Havasupai, Hopi, Hualapai, Southern Paiute, Southern Ute, Yavapai, and Zuni.”
“Curators of the exhibition partnered with 42 members of the Colorado Plateau tribes to select the more than 350 items displayed. The collaboration between MNA curators and the tribal representatives ensures that the gallery not only illuminates but respects the people and cultures it explores and the spiritual importance of the traditions they are sharing.”
I saw the joy on our tour guide’s face as she talked about each section of the museum. She got most excited about an extensive geology exhibit called Footprints of the Past, which displays dinosaur bones and tracks, and a timeline of the movement of the different species in the area.
“Around 240 million years ago creatures large and small walked, slithered, and skittered all over this region. Some left their mark in the mud and, if the conditions were just right, those prints were preserved under protective layers of sediment for eons. These fossil footprints reveal a record of living animals, a glimpse of how they moved and what they did.
One of the most remarkable trackways displayed at MNA was discovered in November 2020 at a construction site just a couple miles down the road from the museum. Heavy equipment operator Spencer Phillip spotted the tracks during excavation for the Starpoint Apartments. The tracks were preserved in red sandstone from the Moenkopi Formation, which is estimated to be early to middle Triassic in age (252 to 235 million years). The Moenkopi Formation contains layers from environments that include ancient sand dunes, and rivers and deltaic settings.” ~ READ MORE
Change of Plans
Since we left Flagstaff with a route to Zion National Park that was pretty fantastic, my plan was to get us all the way into Utah in this post. Since this post was pretty long at it is, I’ll stop it here and keep you in suspense.
Next up: The Road to Zion
Happy trails,
Barb
